Malinalco is a Pueblo Magico just under two hours from Mexico City, making it the perfect getaway for a day trip or short long weekend. I really loved Malinalco — the weather was warm, the people were friendly, the food was amazing, oh, and there was a (smallish) hike! I really feel it has something for everyone, and we barely scratched the surface.
Malinalco is one of Mexico’s designated 132 Pueblo Magicos. A Pueblo Magico is a town or city and could be many things, it might be important to Mexico culturally, has a legend attached to it, symbolizes the national identity or is an area of beauty. It can be quite addictive trying to discover them all. Some are simple, some leave you awe-struck, but for us we found Malinalco was a really very sweet surprise.
We have been camping a few times with Scouts so we knew the area, but we had never gone into town. It’s surrounded by the these lumpy hills that look to me like hidden animals under foliage, sleeping and rounded, surrounding the town. I asked about hikes and they say there are some, but can be slippery and dangerous. I did see some listed on All Trails so I am curious to check this out in the future.
We drove to Malinalco for the September Mexican national day (September 16) which was on a weekend this year. I’m so glad we chose Malinalco as it was very festive and we happened upon two local parades which were gorgeous! Everything was open for the weekend and we could hear the Grito from our Airbnb. The Grito is when they recreate the cry for the beginning of the war of independence and they have a list of people who they name off. The owner of the house said some years it’s overwhelming and loud, but it seemed to quiet down around midnight, probably due to the torrential downpour! We could hear them blocks away doing the Grito, but it was really nice and lots of fireworks and festive noise.
The first day we drove straight to the house we had rented, and dropped off our stuff. It was a wonderful Airbnb and the owner had so many helpful suggestions. The pool was great for the kids, and it was an interesting old, stone house where you actually left the main rooms and went outside to access the bedrooms. It was at the edge of the town, at the base of the hill for the pyramids so a perfect location, we didn’t use our car once.
A late lunch (well, late for Canadians, the Mexicans were still eating breakfast!) was at Los Placeres. I think this is one of the best meals we have had (though I do keep saying this!) But my tacos cochinita were great with a nice spicy mango salsa, super spicy, I loved it and my husband had the cecina in a molcajete and the kids had deep fried tacos. And one had homemade deep fried chicken nuggets. What’s not to love?
There is an incredible shop next door, Los Gallinas. I bought gifts and it was so lovely I went back a second day and bought more. Very nice local, high quality, handmade items that were subtly Mexican. And I finally bought my glass chicken dish. I need to go back and get one for a friend. In the afternoon we walked around the market in the main square. There are two churches, but they were closed when we were there. It poured rain so we took shelter with everyone else in the bandstand.
The next day we came upon two parades. One in the morning with all the school children marching, men on horseback, but my favourite was the beauty queens throwing candy at my eldest son (he was not impressed!) They had two trucks with the 20-year-old queens and two trucks with queens of the ‘tercera edad’ (senior citizens).
That morning we walked up to see the pyramids. It’s a winding, flat, cobblestone path. It’s easier than Tepoztlán, so it’s perfect for younger children or if you are carrying very young children on your back. Shady, and super easy, there are panoramic views of Malinalco at the top. Bring student ID as local students over 13 get in on a reduced fare, under 13 are free regardless. It’s only a half hour walk or less to the top.
The pyramids are Mexica and the temples were built for the Sun God and the God of War as a place to make sacrifices to these gods. For almost twenty years, brave warriors were sacrificed by fighting in multiple sessions until finally his beating heart was pulled out and sacrificed along with his mutilated body. It was also a strategic point to protect Malinalco. In 1537 AD part of the temple was dismantled and taken to build the church of the Divino Salvador.
That afternoon we stumbled upon two truckloads of youth bombing around town in a huge truck chasing each and dressed as Spanish military screaming “Viva España!” to boos and jeers from bystanders. Next up was a parade, with a priest leading the charge (it was Father Miguel Hidalgo who ran his church bell and gave the rallying cry for independence at dawn on Sept 16, 1810), followed by people scraping machetes on the cobblestones, a young man carrying a live armadillo on his back, men dressed as pregnant women, more “Spaniards,” a lot of drinking at each doorstep they passed, and a curious man carrying what looked like a wall on his back. I asked someone later and they said he was El Pípila, Juan Jose de los Reyes who was a miner and an insurgent in the Independence of Mexico. He is famous for tying a flat stone on his back to protect himself from the Spanish muskets, as he carried tar and a torch and set fire to a grain warehouse, where the Spanish had sealed themselves in their bounty of silver and stolen goods.
After the parade I bought some gorgeous baskets from Tlayolxochitl, they had a stand in the market on Malinalco street across from Los Placeres, and a shop on Vincente Gurrero street. I haven’t seen anything so finely woven and such lovely colors. I couldn’t decide! We had lunch at Lima & Mali which was very delicious with something for everyone. We spent our afternoons just reading or swimming.
Sunday my eldest and I went to the Museo de Malinalco, Dr. Luis Mario Schneider. A small, but perfectly formed museum, holding many of the artifacts that were found in the pyramids or by locals when digging in the garden. It’s amazing what people have found and how in tact they are. I wanted to do a little gardening at the Airbnb to see what I could find …..
We bought delicious pastries off the side of the road and really cheap avocados so if you are heading back to the city by all means save room in your car, (or use your new basket?), to bring some really nice produce home.
We had a fantastic brunch / lunch at La Casa de Valentina. I had a perfect omelet and my son had the best chilaquiles with still crunchy chips, not soggy, and the other kids had burgers. The cookies looked incredible and they were fine, but the restaurant meals was really the show stopper. Amazing food.
Our Airbnb was Casa Kokoltin. There is a small grocery store and pharmacy in town called Super & Farmacia (duh). Great ice cream at the many different kiosks at Nieves Malinalli.
Places we didn’t get a chance to try but really wanted to:
One block from the Museo vivo de Malinalco, los bichos de Malinalco, there is a swimming hole, and the photos look amazing. If it’s warmer next time we are keen to check it out.
There were also adverts in town for rappelling, hiking, canyoning and horseback riding in the area. So clearly we need to go back! Please tell me your favourite spots in Malinalco because it’s so close to Mexico City that I’d love to go back!
Come From Away 