Guanajuato is a mining and university town about four to five hours drive from Mexico City. It makes for a great long-weekend road trip. You could also combine it for a week-long trip with San Miguel de Allende, Queretaro or Peña de Bernal.
We arrived day one in the early evening as daylight was fading. This pueblo magico is on a hill, with winding, switchback, and cobblestone streets. At one point I didn’t think our midsize SUV was going to make it. So choose your accommodation wisely! We had booked an Airbnb on an interior, small street with no parking. On a sharp, tight corner my husband dropped myself, the children and the bags while he went off to find a parking garage. Our Airbnb was basic, but very clean, comfortable, slept all five of us easily and was well located. There was a super cute hotel across the road, Hotel Fusion Antigua Trece, but it was fully booked.
Where to Eat
The first night the kids wanted burgers (yawn) so we ate at La Contenta which was close to our accommodation. The food was fine — burgers and wings. They had a varied menu with stir fry as well. The best part was the callejoneadas (troubadours) were always going by, so it made for a perfect spot to watch them.
The next morning we enjoyed walking the streets, as we headed for the famous Santo Cafe to have breakfast. The cafe is on an archway overlooking the cobbled street below. It wasn’t too full of people, but all the cafe tables on the bridge are for couples or smaller groups, so we ate inside. The breakfast was good and it was a nice walk.
We had a great time at Borikén known for their tapas and rum. He had loads of small board games for us to play with the kids. It’s rather hidden, and upstairs, and we were the only ones there. He was such a pleasure to chat to as well. We had a nice quiet afternoon lunch there.
Tacos El Chino, is a small taco stand that comes into being at dusk. Go to the Plaza de los Angeles, and the taco stand is up the hill, on the corner of the green wall by Subida de la Mula and Calixto streets. Very close to the Hotel El Beso de Calixto. If you go too early, you won’t find it as they won’t be set up yet. There was a line-up, just follow your nose with all the delicious smells! I think we would all agree this was one of our favourite places we ate at. Eat standing up, or try and find a bench nearby.
One night my husband and I went to Black Mamba. The food was incredible and cocktails were inventive. I highly recommend!
Where I wanted to eat and we didn’t make it:
- La Vela (seafood tacos and empanadas)
- La Clave Azul (tapas)
- Enchiladas de Lupe (Airbnb host said the best enchiladas) Calixto, Zona Centro, 36000 Guanajuato, Gto.
- the Guacamaya sandwich, we were aiming to have one in the market but it didn’t happen
What to Do
One of the most famous things in Guanajuato, and I wanted to see the most, were the callejoneadas (troubadours) who sing in the twisty callejones (alleyways) of Guanajuato. There are organized tours you can book in the afternoon at one of the plazas (in front of Teatro Juarez), and then meet up with them in the evening. Or you can book an airbnb which is on the main thouroughfare and see them every hour as they pass by! They are dressed in tights and velvet jackets and they carry their instruments as they sing and tell tales on the tour. The upright bass gets extra help with his instrument as they go down steep hills.
The city is also known for underground tunnels for cars and people. We discovered a few shortcuts, both on foot and while trying to park the car, during our stay.
There is a silver mine you can tour, but as we had been to one before we skipped this one. The Valenciana Mine was the deepest mine in the region, the Boca del Inferno mineshaft (mouth to hell) goes 600 metres deep.
We took the Funicular (located up an alley and behind the Teatro Juarez) up to the top of the hill. Tickets one way (adult) were $35 pesos and return $70 pesos. Children (4-11 years) paid $15/$30 and 3 years and under were free. We walked into the wooden cabin and it churned up to the top of the hill, offering panoramic views. There is a small artisan market at the top and food carts as well. We took it up, but we walked down. Even with our kids who have trouble walking, the trip down was totally doable. It was fun to go down all the little streets. We ended up at the market, Mercado Hidalgo, where we bought heavy metal t-shirts and fruit. A great combo!
Next up was the regional museum, Alhóndiga de Granaditas. It was $75 pesos to enter, closed Mondays. Children ages 13 and under are free. The building itself is worth the price of admission. It was an old grain warehouse and one of the first (and main) scenes of the battle for Mexican Independence. During the battle the Spanish, mostly civilians, took refuge in the building as the rebels, led by Miguel Hidalgo and Allende, attacked. They gained access to building when a local miner, nicknamed El Pípila, set fire to the door, covered his back with a stone slab to offset the rain of bullets, and charged into the building. This is why during Independence day parades, you see a man with stone slab on his back.
We went to Diego Rivera’s house which is filled with antiques, artwork and brief history about his life there. Our middle child got bored so we left him on a chair in one of the rooms. When I came back I realized it was the room with all the nude drawings! At least he was quiet…. I really enjoyed this house and recommend going. If you live in Mexico, bring your children’s student ID as there is a discount.
One of the alleys is the Callejón del Beso (kissing alley). It’s based on the legend of two star crossed lovers who found a way to kiss and be together via the balconies that are so close to each other in the alley ways. Yes, it’s touristy, there is a lineup, and they charge you to enter and kiss. But it’s fun! You go up one entrance and your loved one goes up the other. Just make sure you match up to kiss the right person! The kids even thought it was funny. There are cute shops surrounding it.
As we left the city, we went to the Mummy Museum Museo de las Momias de Guanajuato. These were mummified remains from the nearby cemetery. There weren’t artifacts with them, just rooms of mummies, women, old people and babies. My husband and I left the kids in the lobby and quickly went through it. At first we found it fascinating, and then really sad and disturbing to have all of us walking around looking at someone’s family member. We didn’t enjoy it and wished we hadn’t done it and we left early. Entrance is from $59 to $101 pesos to enter. The cemetery nearby and the views are pretty.
Plaza de San Fernando is a super cute, intimate plaza with a fountain, and many cafes and restaurants to choose from. (We ate at Bossa Nova and I wouldn’t recommend it.)
Plaza de la Paz has limited eateries, but beautiful views of the bright yellow church.
Jardin de la Union is a cool, shady plaza by Teatro Juarez. You can buy troubadour tickets, listen to mariachis and access the funicular from here.
Plaza Baratillo as you come down from the funicular is a very sweet square.
A cute street to take photos is the Callejon del Potrero.
All five of us enjoyed our mini Pueblo Magico break to Guanajuato. There were local tourists but it wasn’t packed with visitors which was a nice surprise.
Come From Away 