Oaxaca City in 4 days

(Our week-long family trip to Oaxaca with alternative sites and restaurants, over Easter is here.) This post is about a girls trip to Oaxaca for a long weekend.

When my dear friend of 20 years (who I’ve been blessed to live with in two different overseas countries) said she wanted to come to visit us in Mexico and specifically said “I want to eat and shop my way around Mexico” I responded with YES and a “let’s go to Oaxaca with no kids or husbands!” (Sorry guys)

I contemplated driving again to Oaxaca, as we did the last time, mostly to have room for purchases and freedom of movement. But when we saw airfares were about the same as the tolls for the highway, we decided to fly, which actually gave a full extra day as we flew in and arrived at 7:30 a.m. and flew out at 9 p.m. so it really gave us much more time to explore.

Day 1
We arrived to the Oaxaca airport and, as Ubers don’t operate in Oaxaca, we went to the taxi stands which charge $450 pesos for a taxi or $118 pesos each for a collectivo bus. We decided to take the bus and it was quick, easy and direct. And we were the first dropped off!

We stayed at the Casa de Siete Balcones Hotel. We had a great room, quiet, clean and comfortable. Very reasonably priced with a full breakfast, which we never ate to save room for cafes! But we did have their fruit plate every morning (a dinner plate full of three different types of fruit) and their Oaxacan hot chocolate which was the best we had on our trip. The staff was so friendly and helpful, they were just fantastic. And the location is perfect. You are equal distance to the zocalo area and right beside pedestrian streets to go up to the other end by the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzman. They also offered free parking half a block away in a secure garage.

First things first we headed for my favourite, Boulenc, for breakfast which was just a block or two away. Everything is delicious, their flat whites are so good and pastries melt in your mouth. Many different cooked options both sweet and savory too. Then we headed down to the zocalo and explored the two markets, Mercado Benito Juarez and Mercado 20 de Noviembre. Both have a mix of food, eateries and crafts. There were some amazing baskets made from wire work which I hadn’t seen before, really nice woven baskets with handles and snapped lids and shops selling mezcal, spices or chocolate.

We headed back up Alcala street via 5 de mayo and then up Reforma to the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzman. By the time we had shopped and wandered up there it was time for a snack so we went to La Rueca which has a terrace and view of the church. We shared a pizza and had margaritas while we consulted maps. On 5 de mayo, almost where it stops at the church, there is the cutest alleyway of shops, at 408 on 5 de mayo. All independent designers with a variety of choices — books, soaps, fabrics, shoes, clothing and more. After the snack we walked behind the church on Reforma to Basics (BSCS) and Homo Habilis (clothing and leather goods respectively) and also a stop at a pottery shop Cuarto Suspiro on the corner of Reforma and Constitucion where I bought a few small vases.

That night we had made reservations at Criollo for their tasting menu. It was mostly vegetarian and seafood that night and was amazing. I loved every single thing and it was really tasty and filling — sometimes a tasting menu is eating dirt with a side of foam and mist — but this was delicious. I’m probably going to say every single meal was my favourite, but I wouldn’t want to miss an evening at Criollo.

Day 2

On our second day, while we were making our way for second breakfast at a cafe, we came upon the shop Antiga on Porfirio Diaz (across from Boulnec). We both wanted to buy everything in there but our favourites were the wire garbage baskets with lids (made by prisoners) and the jewelry by Vianney Mendez. As I was raving about the earrings to the kind shopkeeper he told me she was his daughter! Her items are unique and fun and made from textiles. I loved them. We then went to Mujeres Artesanas de las Regiones de Oaxaca on street Manuel García Vigil 204 int. 2, where they had more of her jewelry and really unique and different other handmade products to choose from. We then kept going as we still hadn’t had a coffee yet, but we stopped again to try on hulipes (a style of embroidered blouses for women), which you can find many in the markets. We thought the best selection and quality were at Hilo De Nube on street C. De Manuel Bravo. Finally we made it to second breakfast at Pan con Madre and I have to tell you I think I found a rival for Boulenc! The coffee was just as perfect as were the pastries. They were flaky and nice and not at all dry (which is often the case in Mexico) and a great little courtyard space to sit and enjoy.

However, we were late for our next item on the list so we ate as we walked to the Botanical Gardens for the timed tours. They have tours in Spanish (Mon to Fri 10 am, 11 am, 12 pm, 5 p.m.//Sat 10 am, 11 am, 12pm) and English (Mon to Sat 11:00 a.m.).

We were originally going to go on the one-hour Spanish tour, as it was cheaper ($50 pesos) and we are always keen to improve our Spanish, but they told us it was also shorter with less history, so we opted for the two-hour English ($100 p) tour instead. The tour was a great overview on the history of the area (it was a monastery, then barracks, was narrowly a car park, and fortunately a botanical garden of Oaxacan species). It was really hot so use sunscreen, bring a water bottle and hat, there is a water refilling station half way and washrooms onsite. They currently have 1,000 species from Oaxaca and their goal is to have 1,300 — which is still only 10 per cent of the Oaxacan species that exist. I would not have put this on my list, but I’m really glad we did this tour. And I think you should put it on your list! (If you are touring with kids you can also duck out midway if the tour is getting too long.)

After the gardens, we walked down Reforma, towards the Zocalo, and went into many different independent shops all the way along, including Barro y Palma, which I quite liked and then lunch at Casa Teviche, 1111 Miguel Hidalgo. We were one of three people there, so the service was quick, and it was a beautiful courtyard, the food was really good and filling, I had the tlayudas. We decided to head back up to the shops (shocker!) This time we stopped in at Rocinate which was absolutely gorgeous (but not in our price range) and then a stop at Rito Chocolateria where I had the best chocolate ice cream of my life, thick, creamy, dark chocolate and so good. And I don’t even like ice cream! On our way back to our hotel we stopped in at Marchanta Av. José María Morelos 802, which had interesting and different pottery and clothing. A rest at the hotel before supper.

Supper tonight was at Cocina de Humo, we were the only people there, so we had very individualized attention. We sat in front of the kitchen with a private chef who cooked for us and explained every step. It was all cooked on the comal and we ate out of earthenware, with local drinks and juices. It was delicious and incredibly filling, a tasting menu that tasted like we had been invited into someone’s home. While the food was amazing, what I enjoyed most was having a conversation about how it’s prepared, where the recipes come from, how the kitchen works. They have to replace the comal, the smooth, flat griddle made from pottery that sits on an open flame, every three months. And the earthen oven around it, and the two smaller earthen stoves with fires lit and a grill on top, are replaced one to two times a year. It is the women who make them and replace them so they are built to fit their kitchens and work with how they are preparing the food. There were two little cats running around, herbs drying in the ceiling and tomatoes ripening on the sideboard, it was a cozy, warm supper and we loved it.

Day 3
Renting a car can be an experience in Mexico, hidden fees, no cars available, confusing, so when I read the rave reviews on Only Rent a Car and we realized it was around the corner from our hotel, we booked it. They spoke some English, were really helpful, and everything went smoothly and to plan. I would highly recommend them. Bring your passport and your drivers license when renting.

We both speak Spanish and I have a Mexican data plan, and of course this really helped our trip. But many people do speak English in Oaxaca. I would recommend downloading maps as even if you have a data plan, there is limited service outside of the city.

Today was the day we went to Rug Town (as I like to call it) and saw ruins and pyramids. If you are only going to Oaxaca once I would recommend Monte Alban (which I talk about in my other post). It’s huge and amazing and warrants half a day. Monte Alban is the most important archeological site in the state of Oaxaca and Mitla is the second. So this time we went to two smaller sites and the first one was the Pueblo Magico of Mitla. (While it seems like it should be, Oaxaca City is actually not a Pueblo Magico, but Mitla is.) Free parking, and there is a ticket booth inside the gate. They open the gates on a timed basis so if the gate is closed, just wait a few minutes. We didn’t use a guide but we loved walking around the sites. There are two sites, one right away on your right (after you enter) and to the back of the church. I actually preferred this section. Then you walk further down the main path, as if to leave towards artesenia and a gate, they will open the gate for you and keep walking straight and you will find the second section. The town and artesenia cut through the middle of the site, so don’t forget the second half. One of the guys on the gate actually ran after us to tell us there was a second half to the site. (As we were distracted by textiles. Hmmmm a theme?) This is where the famed six volcanic stone pillars are which used to support a roof. Mitla was a Zapotec religious and burial centre, built as a gateway between the world of the living and the world of the dead, it was then occupied by the Mixtec. When the Spanish arrived they dismantled it and used some of the stones to build the church beside it. Tickets are $90 pesos.

After Mitla we drove to Yagul, which has the largest ball court in Oaxaca, and a wonderful little hike up a path to a lookout. The walk doesn’t take long and gives wonderful views over the valley, I highly recommend you do the walk. ($90 pesos to enter)

On the way back to Oaxaca we went to Teotitlan del Valle to look at wool, hand dyed and hand woven rugs. There is a great shop on the right hand side before you get to the village, called Fe y Lola. The owner was lovely, showed how to wash the rugs properly and demonstrated his current work on his loom. His English was excellent. After that we walked around the main square where there are more stalls, went up to the church, checked out Casa Don Taurino at 15 on 20 de Noviembre street which sells a nice variety of items. Finally, we went to Bug In a Rug, which is where I ended up buying a rug with Zapotec stars on it. The family at Bug in a Rug were so helpful and kind, a lot of selection and excellent English.

We ended the day back in Oaxaca and supper at Casa Oaxaca. It was a very good supper, and it was really nice to sit up on a terrace and enjoy the views of the church. The ambiance was the most enjoyable part, the food was good, and I really liked the appetizers (the mains didn’t thrill me) and while we both really liked what we ate, we agreed it didn’t wow us.

Day 4
Take away second breakfast at Boulenc — almond croissants this time! Then we drove to San Bartolo de Coyotepec to see the black pottery of the region. We drove to the main square and first went to the Museum of Culturas y Artes Museo Estatal de Arte Popular Oaxaca, a small but really well done museum with local artisans displayed. It also had wifi, so we could consult our maps! Then we headed across the main street to go behind the church to Benito Juarez street. Down this road at 24 Benito Juarez we came to Doña Rosa, which has a large selection of pottery, and a demonstration (for a donation) where she explains how they create the pottery. The mine is four kilometers away and the clay is like hard rocks, which they soak for days, to turn into wet clay. The longer they fire the pottery the harder it is and more durable it is, and the less shiny it is. So the shiny black pottery is less durable and has been fired for less time. They have found this pottery in Monte Alban during excavation. Afterwards we walked down Benito Juarez and looked into all the little shops, our favourite was at 34 Benito Juarez, Casa de Leon.

To end our time in Oaxaca we went for a late lunch to Alfonsina. We followed google maps which didn’t take us to exactly the right spot, but if you ask people they will point you in the right direction. It’s a small town, on a nondescript road, so if you don’t see the wooden “Alfonsina” sign and the wooden and black metal garage doors, keep going or ask someone on the road, they will point the way! There is parking if you go in our own car and not in a taxi.

Alfonsina was one of our favourite experiences. The location was so relaxed and beautifully designed, there are limited tables so it was an intimate setting eating the set menu in the garden. There is a shop with local items and you can talk to the ladies preparing the food. The toilets are newly installed as eco-toilets that don’t use water. The food was so fresh, delicious, imaginative and full of flavour. We loved everything we ate, it was a wonderful tasting menu and we are so happy we put this on our list. This is a must-do!

This was our last day so we returned the car, packed up and had a late flight out of the city.

I have managed to go to Oaxaca twice and have still not gone to the Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca. The first time it was still closed due to covid, and this time we ran out of time! It’s open Tuesday to Saturday 10-5:30, Sunday 10-3:30. So I guess I need to go back again! I think on average we walked around 10 km a day, so we definitely got our steps in, in-between cafes, restaurants and coffees. We wandered in and out of so many more local artisan’s shops and art galleries with showcases that there are too many to list. But that is the joy of Oaxaca, discovering what is around the corner!